Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Back in the saddle. Very nice in front of taco bell. Clear and no wind-not glassy but cleaning with a slight surface bump/chop. They were sloping wedges – some outside ones were head high. It got crowded REAL quick. Scored some real nice ones w/folk whooping and hollering as I went down the line. A dolphin did a 3/4 breach 10 yards out. Then 2 minutes later another dolphin surfaced practically on top of my board. It scared the living shit out of me and I jumped back on my board and let out a girlish lit yelp that other folk found somewhat funny. It was so close I could see the scar tissue on its fin- it also snorted loudly – almost sounding like the bray of a horse- i was sprayed with seawater from its spout –is that basically dolphin snot????. Later in the parking lot A filled me in on D’s injury. Shore break at the creek. he hit bottom and became IMMOBILIZED underwater. Just as he was about to give up he got sensation back on his foot and pushed up and screamed. Folk carried him in. He walked around for two days very sore and tingling before going to doctor. Immediate surgery – broken back – vertebrae fusion – neck cast for six months. So harsh. Right there at linda. You can never be too cautious and even then…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=17658
Skip to content
Daily Journal On Surf Conditions