Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : it was roiling and messy. looke like nothing but on sets these big ass wedges would appear. i stayed way outside. finally i picked one off- a big ass wedge-heard people on the inside scream when i took off on it- i barrelled towards john on the inside- the board trembled under my feet. i got one other ride that wasn’t quite nearly as good and then got out
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions