Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : Clean and well groomed at Taco Bell. it was a sesh that kept getting better and better. The peak was right in front of TB and some would break right – then others would break left. On occasion a big big right would come barreling in from the outside and take everyone by surprise. No one got it. I surfed really well. A number of waves I started all WARBLY and FUNKY – almost falling off – then recovering and racing down the section. A number of waves sort of closed out right after the peak but then kept going with a wide open face – had to race around the whitewater to make the section – really cool. Tried yelling on some takeoffs to alert folk I was coming down _I went to say a word like “cowabunga” but when I try and do that it breaks my concentration and I wipe out. All I can let out is like a “whoa- whoa” which reminds me of the Dunder – which is not good…
Stats/Video :
Skip to content
Daily Journal On Surf Conditions