Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : patchy clouds – smaller – but the dox was still working. got off to a slow and frustrating start – blowing wave after wave. but finally – in the last half hour I got on my mark. my last wave was a slow hazy daze- a little knee / waist hi thing that just kept going – it was like I was meandering down a river on some huck Finn raft. I managed a very long “hood ornament”. however when I got out -“ding” on the rail. off to r wood who is no longer solo but employed right proper like by Jeremiah over at Sonlight (who took the shop over from Dan who moved to Hawaii. – that was how long its been since I went to Sonlight… cchhhhhanges…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions