Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Overcast and slight chop- flat in the South and all the action up North by Hotels. Waves were wide breaking slosh. They would appear to be pitching up (oh hear comes a good wave) then they would hit a trough and flatten out – then right at the lineup – they would pitch up steep again and break wide. Sometimes they would make a nice re form on the inside. Somewhat difficult waves to read – paddle into – and surf. But I was surfing really well seemed to be in the right place at the right time for the whole session – missed very few waves that I paddled for. GIGANTIC whale out back doing massive tale whacks…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions