Month: July 2020

LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : gray and overcast. the same little peak again in from of the A pump house- not really any good long boarders – just sick with kooks. but I surfed well and managed to weave and bob and get a fair number of nice lefts. last ride was the best – and it was a right
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : Repeat with a slight surface chop on the surface due to a cross offshore. got a few okay rides in the first twenty minutes. then – to quote hüskers- everything falls apart – complete and total kook land deterioration and humiliation- missed every wave i went for – selected bad waves – utterly stunning…
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : same time same channel – the l’il ole left in front of the a lot pump house with the amazing fantastic R and some other regulars like B and M. a little bigger super sweet – some spinners and some backwards surfing …
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Repeat in front of the A lot pump house with R and Traveller folk. Smaller this am but still a nice micro soft left- you really had to get on it instantaneously to manage the line.  A waist size set wave came through that i was in the perfect spot for – great ride – also managed one complete spinner.. As i left the ocean Neptune (trans -which i didn’t know) arose from the shallows and pinned a Gold Star on my wetsuit…
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Flattish windless and overcast. However, from the A lot to the North end were bumps and mini-“peaks”. Directly in front of the A lot was a sweet little bump – and R was all over it – serving up longboard styl-ee in heaps on silver platters. It’s rare that I don’t wait and watch for at least 5 minutes – here i knew immediately – get on it before the low tide sucks it away. indeed it was very nice- nice n’ sleazy little soft lefts. nice pod. not too crowded. women -centric. i felt i was not surfing as well as i should have been surfing. However,” I”paddled out and said “man you’re getting a lot of long rides.” Post sesh a man who had been sitting on the beach with a backpack hoodie and mask came over and said to me “man you got a lot of rides – and you make the whole thing seem so easy.” made my day…
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LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : *
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : I suppose the first hour – the taco bell left- was kind of okay- but then the second hour deteriorated so fast and so completely so as to almost extinguish any first hour stoke…
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LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : perfectly acceptable wave in front of TB. in fact it was the very same left of the last few weeks. Difference being it wasn’t crowded with great long boarders (absentees including the 3 long boarding groms – henceforth to be known as the “3 GroMigos”)- but it was crowded with kooks and soft top jockeys. I managed a few to the tip lefts. then the right toward the creek started to work. I paddled over to it because the set Right allowed for a kook free flight path. it was a bit of a wait but finally a right came – a nice shortish wide faced right -zipped pasty rock garden and decided to get out…
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LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : chopped up an d onshore- some here and there’s in front of Taco Bell – but generally underperformed- bad wave selection primarily\

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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : clear and clean. north to south  looked small and dumpy. then a perfect shoulder high SURFER magazine set came in at dox. 3 waves in the set – each more well groomed than the previous . no one in the lineup. by the time I got out two folk were on it. everything went my way. I was in the right place at the right time- even for the set wave. they held up and I surfed with poise. one set wave was just all face picture perfect heading down the line pulling off an “Ian Curtis” and a hood ornament. by the time I got out seemed the whole beach north to south was jacked up and working…

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