Location : TOPANGA 4/4 Time/Length : am/1.35 Rating : 4 Performance : 4 Board : 94 AL Notes : Going out on a limb here and giving it the double 4’s. MOSTLY BECAUSE I SURFED REALLY WELL. Maybe – my best performance of the whole trip. I paddled out into the outside pod as soon as I got in and was rewarded with a nice outside set wave. Went back towards the inside and got a number of nice ones on the inside. Last wave was a really solid- very inside-close to shore – but it stayed open and I surfed it really well. Getting out there was a pro surfer on the wave behind me and MAN did he rip apart his inside wave – on some ancient yellowed longboard pintail that he rode like butter. Getting out was rocky and treacherous. Also, there is still alot of weird debris washing ashore from the fires. For some reason, alot of rusty spring metal coils – that were super nasty. Gina grabbed one of the coils that had some how fused together with some shells to make this weird “pamela Wallace” type sculpture. (it’s on the hood of the car in the vid.) That afternoon we went to alice waters luch at the HAMMER and a great Hammer exhibits (Noah Davis!!) Fsrmers market near Stanleys’ Drygoods. Los Feliz book signing of Toby Huss new phot book with Hartper Q and A (missed it by a little bit) Then restored showing of APLPHAVILLE at Los Feliz theater. Cut to the vid… Stats/Video : https://player.vimeo.com/video/1100783003?h=132e5c01a0
