Day: May 30, 2022

Location : C 4/4
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Going with the double 4’s. It was clean waist to head high and some getting bigger than that. An epic 46 people in the lineup. But mostly because it was a VA surf meet. Like a lake – then the sets would power in. When I first got in – very clean with the outside bombs. An entire contingent were just surfing the inside right. Another entire pod was doing the small right – in front of the near jetty. I got a few records as far as length of rides – some 600’s and one 957 foot. I could of surfed a little better – but my last ride was truly epic. A seal was dead in front of me as I was about to take off. So close I had to just paddle with my right hand. If I had reached with my left I would have likely hit it. (I’ve heard they take off fingers with one bite. Plus this was an adult.) Other factor was two soft top kids – right in the impact zone who were looking at a triangulation of a big floating seal , a big wave coming at them – and me bearing down on everything. ) At the last minute the seal dove straight down – fast and hard – allowing me to take one crucial paddle that angled me into the face of the wave. I could almost feel the slimy back tail of that seal as I stroked hard. It was the final “direction” stroke that got me into the perfect spot. The soft top kids got tombstone/obliterated. Me? Straight down the face of a glassy shoulder high Cap right hander that allowed for a lot of S turns and some tip time. A wave so good – I called it a sesh. [Plus I didn’t want to see if that seal might be out there looking for me.)
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