Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 84 al
Notes : Clear, cleanish, windless. Very closeouty so this is one of the reasons I have the short board – get in on those waves that are steep and hit the corner quick. I kept going over the Falls. Finally I snatched a right – a wedge that stayed open. Surfed it well – perhaps went the fastest I ever went on the board. However that was it – for the next hour just hunt and peck and wipeout and mis judge on waves. one wave – but well worth it
Stats/Video :
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions