Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : on the sets -it was big. I sat just N. of boat dox proper waiting for the BIG SET SLABS to roll in. I surfed exceptionally well – great positioning – caught wave after wave. a paddle border caught a monster just as I was paddling out – christ I thought he was gonna hit me- I swarmed over the cresting lip as he barreled down – It was scary. more people came in and they were sitting right in the impact zone for the set waves. I got out more because I felt it there were too many people to avoid in the impact zone. thrilling sesh…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions