Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.10
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : md 2.0
Notes : There were waves at a crowded boatdox. However I was surfing like an elderly kook. I couldn’t believe my poor wave choices and my seeming lack of paddle power, my wretched pop up. I was ready to write the session off when I got a medium size redemption wave. Even that was a poor pop up. But the wave had legs and when I finally popped up there was still a lots of juice left in the wave. I immediately redeemed my self and managed a very stable nose ride- I really got just about six inches from the nose – and I planted my self – the wave still had some power – and it was great. Just as it was about to close out I planted my left foot on the tail and round housed to the right and managed another close to shore Right section. Confident. Wow. Sometimes one wave can do it. A confidence restore-er. A redemption wave.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions