Location : PG
Time/Length : am/pm /4.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : BB
Notes : AM: 7 am started off with my 94 mactavish-patched and pockmarked- nicknaming BB for “Bukowski Board” because it looks like the face of Charles bukowski, I started out straight out but I couldn’t really click in. there were a lot of NYC single cell SUPER JABRONIES in the water. I managed about one decent pumping right – but was surfing very poorly. I got out and headed down the beach to where the swell was less. I got to the point where it seemed like a lot of surf schools were happening. Swell was definitely more friendly. I still couldn’t quite click in but finally I swung into a right- lined up perfect and man was that wave OPEN FOR BUSINESS. Swear I almost hand all ten over – heard some whoopin from folks as I glided by. Got out. Cut my losses. 2 45 minutes. 1 nice wave. 1 really nice redemption wave. Got back to cabin- cutting fruit- drinking black as sin coffee- tina spotted a lizard five feet big outside our cabin – we thought it was a monkey at first-reckon that shit could whisk away a 3 year old into its lair… I took the NSP garbage pail lid back to ola alai. PM Went down to the south end of the beach where it was less swell. Still it was fairly significant – and 80% tomahawk closeout. Ride as the red balloon sun was setting I managed a nice right on ole’ BB
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions