Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94 al
Notes : clean ish conditions but lumpy swell – big on the sets. clear sky. to may folk in the water that were unprepared for the waves. you had to get in early and race to a corner to get the ride – if not you were just jack hammered with your board and you flying into the lineup of people paddling out. there were many waves that i paddled for that i went right up to the edge and then aborted – they folded over into a closeout chasm. i managed to score a nice big clean wedge finally – a left which the reformed into a right and the i got out
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions