Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : It was kinda sorta working in front of Taco Bell but still swamped out because of high tide. Up north however there was a right that was crumbling over and looked pretty good so I hit it. good move – the first 40 minutes were really good- nice little rights with some sets coming thru now and again. surfed good. managed a very weird kind of set wave that really stayed open- I managed to get both feet inches from the nose – for what seemed like an eternity. When I was looking down it just seemed very weird because it really was like I was surfing on air. The GAP between the nose of my board and the curl of the wave was sizable -nothing but air- it was like I was just floating…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions