Location : Surfrider Beach Malibu
Time/Length : PM/2.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : MD0ve 9’4 Prototype
Notes : Tina and I flew in to LA and made it to Gina house in Culver by 8pm Tuesday – for the T Give Holiday. Mikel on Jury in Torino Film Fest. So Wed. the tide was bad in the AM so we waited and then hopped in the car around 3PM with Tina and headed to Surfrider Beach , Malibu. Mainly because tide was so lo and lack of swell made the line up nearly empty – only about 10 people. Definitely a bucket list wave. After getting comfortable in the line up I started two hit it and understand how you needed to really swing into the wave. Although it was small – the wave really rifles along and holds you up. Plus – on occasion there was a beautiful wave that would swing but further out at First Point. However I stayed on the inside and really managed to lock in on a few waves – despite the small size – it was magical.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions