Location : SCS
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clean glassy and clear. hemmed and hawed at Capitola – then no. hemmed and hawed at privates – then not. at the hook it was smallish but very clean line – already crowded with great long boarders. but sharks – that was the answer. straight away I tucked into two very good rights small but well groomed – with multiple sections. then for 45 minutes I had a dry spell- bad positioning and some fumbles. Finally the magic wave came my way = shoulder high – pure glass- no one else around- a great wave. far down the line I saw a guy shoulder hop – I caught up to him really quick and he did a graceful dismount – – I thanked him as I raced further down the line through another section. it petered out far into the sharks cove. sesh end…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions