Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Big lefts just north of the A lot pump house. Once you got in you could meander and left and right – but the peak was the left. Further up north a big right was breaking and I felt confident enough to go there for my last wave. only a few people were on it. A bomb came my way – but as far out as I was I was still too inside. Oddly it was leaning left so I decided to try and grab it. From the whitewater was a steep left drop- I held on – but just barely. I stabilized and realized I had a giant sloping line of whitewater behind me- I could go any direction I wanted. I decided to cut right and it was the better choice- the wave started to pitch up and hollow out but i was positioned well.over a 200 yarder – rare for linda-kinda of a twofer good left into a great right – same wave
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=20443.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions