Location : LMB
Time/Length : Am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Supposed to be smaller than friday but it was even bigger. It was hell getting out. Big green slab came at me – thought i was positioned well – but it jacked up on me so i aborted at the last second. I made it over the lip but not the board. I felt that wave tug the leash to the max until i felt it “release” the board went sailing twords kooks and the shore and i was left swimming in big swell. Didnt panic – took it slow board fortunatel didnt hit anyone and MIKE grabbed it so i didnt even have ro swim all the way to shore. Went back out got one nice one and was done
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions