Month: June 2016

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : 92 ASP
Notes : pretty dang good out at the dox- sat way outside and got some nice crunchable but glassy rides – whale action aplenty
Stats/Video : forgot it…

C

Location : C
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : *****+
Performance : ***+
Board : 92 asp
Notes : out of control malibu like perfection at capitols-glass head high semi-monsters that went on forever- caught six in a row 200+ yards – the other six were all north of 150 yards each. at one point got almost all ten over – felt the lift but couldn’t recover- went over the top of the board – i surfed incredibly … odd because of a hangover from the recording mesh…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=25880.

C

Location : C
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : *****
Performance : ***
Board : 92asp
Notes : going w/the five. wide breaking glass. somewhat weird waves because they had this soft fold over quality- but then went on forever if you could get around the section. in fact i did a number of time. caught an outside wave but – at first- could nt get around a section that collapsed around me- i was riding white water forever trying to get ahead- finally i broke free and beat the section- in the curl for a glassy ride. so weird to have an initial great ride – then the wave collapses around you – then beating the section and opening up into a brand new vista. caught another outside bomb where i was in the curl – head high very serious- thought i was gonna be barreled – i was right on the edge of the board to stay ahead – i felt the lift and comfortable with my weight so far forward. T3 said whity took down a dolphin on the north end of linda this morning. signs were up because i stopped on the way back (“warning shark sighted” – peeps paid it no mind) cowells had a GWS on tuesday by the buoy – kinda disconcerting as that is where i like to sit… only june … what will october bring???
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=25512.

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 92 ASP
Notes : again by the a lot pump house. cleaner – less chop. the swell went way up while i was in the water. all of a sudden big outside sets were coming in. a rogue wave came in and everyone said UH-OHH and I was sitting on the outside and knew i was gonna take it on the head. Thought i might make it over but realized it was not gonna happen so i chucked the board over to the side and dove down as far as I could. i was wearing my knee leash and i swear the torque on that leash and the board was INCREDIBLE- I KEPT THINKING its gonna snap its gonna snap- but it held- the board shot up like a missile thank god no one was in its path…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=25006.