Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 92 ASP
Notes : again by the a lot pump house. cleaner – less chop. the swell went way up while i was in the water. all of a sudden big outside sets were coming in. a rogue wave came in and everyone said UH-OHH and I was sitting on the outside and knew i was gonna take it on the head. Thought i might make it over but realized it was not gonna happen so i chucked the board over to the side and dove down as far as I could. i was wearing my knee leash and i swear the torque on that leash and the board was INCREDIBLE- I KEPT THINKING its gonna snap its gonna snap- but it held- the board shot up like a missile thank god no one was in its path…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=25006.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions