Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : MD 2.0
Notes : IT WAS large and in charge. Not as big as yesterday – but big enough at dox to paddle out cautiously. It was also plus tide which made thing very swampy and warmly. I managed a couple of waves and surfed them poorly- then I got walloped by a wave – turned upside down and swallowed a bunch of seawater- that was enough of a early morning wake up – session over and off to work…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions