Month: July 2016

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : almost a four. wide breaking waves – with some power and size – slight cross offshore chop in the water- paddled out by the second pumphouse. at one point i ran over a guy- never saw him- very scary – my knee leash must have caught his board because one momemt i’m flying down a steep face and the next it feels like someone has yanked my leash and i go over the front of the board- we surfaced both without a scratch – scary can’t believe i didn’t see him- it was however a very late takeoff and very steep
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=31294

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : holy shit – pretty good boat dox glass- mesh was bumping up against a five. peeps still talking about the shark thangy- sweet mesh. afterward a young kid was in the surf school changing into his wetsuit next to my car. when i took out the magnet key hide he said” oh my god is that a magnet?” i said yes. he said wow that is so cool. what is it for?. I was a little baffled so i said: “its a hide a key” and i showed him that it was a magnetic box that could hide a key and that i hid it under the wheel well. he was in complete awe “mom you need to get this he said and his mom said wow that is cool.” 10 seconds later i went to take off the trace from the front of the board and the kid said- “what the hell is that/” i said its a satellite tracking device blah blah blah” his jaw dropped and he said: hand dropping flat “”OKAY YOU JUST HAVE THE COOLEST STUFF EVER” i drove out the lot laughing – it was like i was the james bond of surfing
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=30650

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 92 ASP
Notes : Foggy as hell. walked down to boatdox and saw a crowd in the lineup. very clean. soft and not as big as yesterday but pretty okay. de waxed the 92 asp board- i think i had ten ponds of wax on the board- it was like surfing a potato chip. short session-dense fog had burned almost completely away in an hour to reveal deep cloudless blue sky…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=30541