Month: July 2016

SCH

Location : SCH
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 92 asp
Notes : spialed down to the hook w/kevin odle. found some well groomed rides early on. serious low tide. i never locked into the wave i wanted but found some action. we exited just as the Dunder was making his appearance. ” ‘Tis the Morning Peace which is Torn Asunder- By the Bluster of the Dunder”
Stats/Video : still broke

O

Location : O
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 92 asp
Notes : down to cowells micro and crowded but score some thigh high long rides…
Stats/Video :

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : *
Performance : *
Board : 92 asp
Notes : piss poor overcast – surfed badly to boot. from 12 – 8 was tcimh recording mesh with kelley stoltz studio – with Mo and Rusty Miller- we cut ride captain ride- then added a ton of shit onto good popular. i did vox to close watch and ride. killer session all around- heaps of great creative fum and songs came out better than expected
Stats/Video :

B

Location : B
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Overcast and cloudy- not big and clean as predicted. Small waves dead set in front of the beach entrance. never saw waves break there before. (the patch was soft and the groin was also dodgy.) i paddled over to the groin after a while and got one sharp crisp fast wave – the rest of the time was frustrating. i came back to the front of the beach entrance and decide to go in without a leash because it was such close shore break. got to very killer waves right away waist high long rides inches from the beach-liberating to surf without a leash – so it felt
Stats/Video : the button done broke…

LM

Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 92
Notes : Well today was the kapuna surf contest. i packed a lunch, built two wooden blocks to keep the board off the stand. brought both wetsuits and reading material figuring that like last year it would be an all day affair. alas it was not to be. eliminated in my first 9 am round. good serfers in my heat, j larson; m bode and longtime OB lifeguard S Scanlan. One other guy i didn’t know – who beat me. the waves had some size and punch. it was not an easy paddle out if you didn’t wait for the lull. frequent outside 3 wave close out sets were pretty powerful. i didn’t even get my 4 waves- only 3 and that’s what killed me- i kept waiting for an outside bomb to score at least one high scoring wave and then paddle for the inside waves. wrong move. everyone else stayed inside and got high performance inside rides. my three waves were okay – just nothing special. scallion did manage to get an outside bomb just as the 5 minute hot blasted- i was paddling back out caught inside. when i saw him get it i said – dead just won the heat- he came in second. still lots of fun despite such shameful failure!!
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=28724