Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Overcast with the A lot peak working – but I couldn’t connect that well. Finally moved a little south because the right started working and got a few. then it started to lull out and I moved back – but found nothing – so I paddled back to the right. Suddenly the sky opened up and the water glassed off and sets started coming thru. Had a great sash thenceforth – with E. We bot got out together and when we got to the showers ran into a woman who had gashed her head on her fin. bleeding. E a nurse. I got my first aid kit. it was a divot. Gave her water and my mirror so she could see the cut. E changed up and the drove her to the emergency room…
Stats/Video :
Skip to content
Daily Journal On Surf Conditions