Month: September 2019

C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : Clean and crisp and glassy- no real kelp problem. Where did it go? Long lulls – but outside bombs were coming through. I could of selected better but definitely got any number of nice long rights. Went back that evening. Smaller, The offshore had picked up and the kelp had returned- still managed some nice ones in the sunset. That night we made a great steak salad with blanched broc – a carmel brownie and fruit tartlett from gay les
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C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : We spiraled down to Fern River and cabin 11B (11a is the better one). I got down to Capitola by 4:45. Strong offshore – some breaking big and KELP BIG TIME. You really had to SURF AROUND the large kelp bed pods – which you could do on the larger waves – you could see big pods of kelp rising on the face of the wave and you could quickly adjust around them. However , many times just went straight into a thick kelp bed – RIDE OVER
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Overcast and drizzly at the creek – still working – a little mushy but gems coming through – with EFl – wow she is good- great sesh – feet cut up again on the rocks…
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LMB2C

Location : LMB2LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **** +
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Clear and sunny with Screaming offshore. Hollow waist to overhead waves at the creek so hit the dox. IMPOSSIBLE to get into – but once you did they stayed open. very frustrating – blinded paddling into the waves. however caught one and it was great and stayed open forever. Then i paddled over to the creek – away from the pack at pandas. they were big and hollow- got one screamer right. boards flying everywhere – decided to get out…
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ****+
Performance : **+
Board : 94
Notes : blue skies windless glassy and mackin overhead at the creek. dox not workin so it was creek or go home. 36 in the creek peak pod at 715 and about a dozen had chops. sets were coming in that were way overhead and it was a mad scratch to get over. i stayed south of the peak and chose my battles wisely – got one absoluite SCREAMER right but mis-paddled for alot of waves. mostly out of caution – being away from the main peak and not being sure who was coming down the line. when i got out saw C in a brutal white water collision- he came oout with a nose cut bleeding – maybe busted nose- got him my first aid kit and cleaned up- didnt look like stitches. guy who hit him stayed in the water! a knuckle headed longboarder with a white board with aqua side stripes – a hefty middle aged dude. The T. shows up witha cut on his head- his own board clobbered him on his forehead. Wednesday Carnage…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Clean and crisp. Creek to me was too big so off to the dox. It was quite crowded right when I got in – but after a hald hour everbody had either left or paddled over to mackin Creek. Just me and R and J basically- I waited for some bombs and it was well worth the wait – kind of klassic dox – the creek just looked like a zoo – -great sesh
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Another great sesh at the creek. bombs coming through. surfed great on GLASSY faces. Caught one outside bomb that was epic. T filled me in on the SURF RAGE incident that happened to him on Saturday at the creek B4 the contest started. Perp was OLB! T finger all fucked up as a result of having OLB spear him – bleeding everywhere. Said OLB went full on lunatic. scary. we talked along time in the water about it. then we talked about it again for a while in the lot. T was still shaken up- fucked up shit – a brutal assault and battery in the water to one of the nicest surfer on the South end!
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : overcast with big juicy chunk wedges at the creek. i surfed great. got outside bombs – screaming rights. nightbefore was at the chapel seeing mike watt and the missingmen. great to see tom watson after so many years. shoy Steve A on my iphone for the good/popular video
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LMC LMB

Location : LMC LMB
Time/Length : am/2.5
Rating : ***
Performance : 0*
Board : Big chill out . They set up by the creek which was exciting. however Surfed worse than I can ever remember – I also drew a not bad heat that I could of done well in. surfed inelegantly and like thrashing wailing fat kook. afterward went to boatdox and managed a couple of okay rides.
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