Month: September 2019

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : More size than all week. Some outside bombs coming in- had some trouble getting into them in the beginning then found my footing. M went 1985 Orange County surf rage ballistic on some guy that dropped in on him twice- kinda surprised by that
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Overcast and all jumbled up and random wedgy. Gone were the clockwork precision rights and lefts of the previous days. It was all hunt and peck by the creek – grab a big wedge and puzzlepiece the waves various reforms. Challenging bot i surfed really well and got some great waves – lefts and rights
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Another 4 X4 payoff at the creek. overcast  and clean to glassy. counted 36 on the peak but only six actual surfers, everyone else was soft top jockeys. R and C. Also everyone was going left I was the only one going right – had every thing I wanted. Once in a while R would go right – but thats it. The left was longer but you had to jockey around 20 people and avoid 10 people floundering on the inside. Also alot of talk about the shark that showed up last week at the Creek – everyone seems to say it was on the juvenile side…
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : creek delivers another 4 star -again! also performance was a four. clear and windless – slight ripple in the water but otherwise glassy – definitely steeper and larger-more punch
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Creek delivers again. Raining and cloudy – it looked like nothing from the lot but Then something would come in and I could see the gliders (C and C)- when I got in it got better – only about six of us – then the sun burst through- Then after an hour and a half it was gone – flat and completely shut down
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Back at the creek again. Died down a bit but still plenty to grab if you knew where to sit. I outdid yesterdays “hood ornament” by doing an even better one today – stone cold still and completely in the POCKET of the wave – perched.
Stats/Video :

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : There were biggish closeouts ALL the way North. At the South end there were a pod of people -but I could not see any wave coming through. Had the time and just waited at the A lot pumphouse. Up North it looked like there were things coming through – but from the angle they were closing out fast. When I looked down to the creek I could see once in a while a wave come through – small but well groomed. I decided to drive to the B lot and get a frontal view. When I got to the B lot all of a sudden a set came through at the creek – mid size -waist to shoulder – glass – the open right into Rock Garden. Did it jump up right then?? OR was it a matter of perspective?? Looking at the creek from the A lot it just looked like a no go?? I think it was a combination of both – in the hald hour I waited the swell picked up and the perspective was skewed from looking down at the creek from the North lot. Anyway a great sesh – a conveyor belt of clean glassy zippt right – completed a number of switch stances as well as stone cold frigid “hood ornaments”. Then When I got out  and watched from the lot as I changed I did not see one wave come through. It was like I came in and waves arrived. I left and then the waves left. Weird.

Stats/Video :

LMN

Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/.55
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board :  clear and windless glass but only working up north. the creek was dead. there were little glassy peaks that softly popped up here and there offerinmg half hearted rides – it was okay because it was so clean- zero chop in the water so the little ride you got was clean and unhampered
Notes :
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : close to perfect at the creek. windless clear glass peak at the creek/piandas. from the moment i got in i was in perfect position for every wave. never faltered. lost wave count
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