Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Cold. Cross onshore. Bruised cloudy sky. Crowded. Crowd was half okay half not okay. too much wrong male energy. Sets had size. I missed the big outside bombs. However, I lurched into a nice chunky shoulder size shoulder and got way far up on the nose- awkwardly both feet were far up the nose but not evenly spread – my feet were together and towards the inside rail- I don’t know why – or how I was able to ride the wave so long in that position – utter chance – no skill nor craft involved – pure dumb luck it seemed like. but for that ride alone – a three.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions