Location : LMB
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 92 ASP
Notes : Going again w/the four. SL said poor- down at the B lot it looked like big jumbled mess- bigger than yesterday – but folk crowded at the dox. When i got out there it was much cleaner. The reason it looked so jumbled was because the storm had filled the take off point with giant brown SEA FOAM. It was think- we were like in a giant bubble bath. I called it Latte Lefts because it looked exactly like the foam on top of a latte. Made it very hard to take off because you couldn’t see the end of your board- also the waves were big but coming at you like a big brown latte- is it pitching up?? am i positioned right?? i got some great rides taking off DEEP IN FOAM and riding it into a clear foamless section… total trip. My last wave was a monster- half way thru it reformed and I knew – “this is the wave where I break the 200 yard LM barrier. Indeed it was – 208 yards – the new record for length at least amount the 15 or so Trace users from LM. B6 back in da’ mix…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=46201
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions