Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 92
Notes : Big ominous wedges under a bruised sky- you could tell big storms are a coming. Pedro point was breaking massive- 3 people were out at the point taking off on the monsters. It was not very crowded- relatively clean – an occasional offshore GUST. Action was by the creek and boatdox. Outside sets had girth and power- they folded over and rolled in-a right by the creek and a left by boat dox (but not extreme boatdox) I snagged some wedges w/D. The wide breaking gem eluded me. My last wave pitched up severely but I was positioned well – a right – it got steep and started to close in on me – somehow I managed to stay on the wave but I have ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA how I kept my balance. I wish I could say I was powering through the sections but I was more baffled – why am I still standing on this wave??? Finally it seemed to collapse around me and I went left but still hung on – twittering like charlie chaplin on the deck of the boat in the movie Gold Rush- I steadied myself and realized the wave now was reforming on the right. I turned sharply and had another nice ride- a right -in full control-ending virtually on the ramp of a boat dox shack. Stats give the ride 200 yards – new LM record. The ride felt more like luck than any intentional skill on my part…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=10484
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions