Month: April 2019

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 84 al
Notes : Much better at the dox. Cleaner and bigger. I managed a head high that I beat two sections on. I decided that I will bring back the log on June 1. so about one more month of short board shenanigans…
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 84 al
Notes : did alright at the dox. it was mushy and close outy but i managed to scramble up a few eggs. i was surprised because i had very low expectations- but i surfed well.
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 84 al
Notes : big dumpy and jumbled. overcast. why i went out at the A lot instead of going straight to boatdox is a mystery to me. i just stared over the ledge of aborted waves-narrowly averting disaster. i scratched over set waves that seemed giant. finally paddled over to where SUP M and D as well as T were at – boatdox. There were waves coming through. I had a nice set wave set up for me but I flubbed the takeoff doing a disservice to the waves well groomed offering. cut my feet (yet again) on the rocks gettin out.. glad i went in though…
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.25
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 84 al
Notes : Clear, cleanish, windless. Very closeouty so this is one of the reasons I have the short board – get in on those waves that are steep and hit the corner quick. I kept going over the Falls. Finally I snatched a right – a wedge that stayed open. Surfed it well – perhaps went the fastest I ever went on the board. However that was it – for the next hour just hunt and peck and wipeout and mis judge on waves. one wave – but well worth it
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SCP

Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/2.15
Rating : *****
Performance : ***
Board : 84 AL
Notes : First 5 of the year. Got to SC 1 hour after low tide -perfect timing. Checked out Privates first and it was nice but slightly weak and soft. Went down to Capitola  and was tempted  for there was a small glassy peak . However there were too many on it – and to boot it seemed like about 4 of the surfers were good long boarders – so they got everything coming through. I decided to go back up to Privates because there had been only one person in the water. When I arrived back  a perfect set rolled in and I knew to suit up ASAP. It was waist to shoulder /head high glass. No wind – except an occasional offshore breeze. Blue sky. Two women came in the water – both kind of beginners. For an hour we had the peak to ourselves and I got each set wave that came through. We all kind of took whatever we wanted. Surfed well on the board – got some nice S curves in on some of the long long outside waves that were big enough that you could keep going down the line if you knew went to cut back and then hit the reform. It was a classic California day. Crystal , clear green water – the jutting cliffs – soaring birds in the sky and lazy seals floating on the water. Easter. Kept thinking of that magazine store on the lower east side – down the block from Sounds records- summer of 1983. I would buy Surfer magazine there and read it on the F train back to Queens. Just ogle those Pictures of the perfect waves in sunny California. Were those waves that perfect? The scenery that jaw dropping? Here it was – all these years later. It was real and now it was part of my routine …
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