Month: April 2019

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 84 al
Notes : It was an onshore windy mess. But not so windy that it was impossible to get the board off the car. 4 people in the water. looked like there were wind swept wedges that stayed open. Another story up close and personal. ocean beach like paddle our. punishingly cold closeouts. Steep wedges rising up real quick. hard to know what was gonna stay open for a ride. I managed a couple of rights – fast and furious. then punished again. then a couple of weird reforms-overall a challenge but glad I did it
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 84 al
Notes : Foggy and clean at the dox. It looked close outy – but was hard to tell from the B lot. When I got out there  not many folk and it was a different story. There were waves and for the first 30 minutes I scored. One after the other – good take offs- nice sections. Then- for the next hour – nothing – Hunt and peck and false take offs and close outs. what happened? Damned if I know. Did I suddenly start surfing badly after 30 minutes or did the waves get bad? Damned if I know. It got crowded – for a weekday- lots of yakety yak and doe eyed foam top pirates anchored in the impact zone. I scored  a half assed ride and called it a sesh…
Stats/Video :

C

Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 84 al
Notes : Coming over the first big hump into Pacifica- where you get that first view of the vast expanse of the Great Pacific Ocean- I knew it was gonna be too big for the Mar. A giant whitish/brown swarth was visible all the way out at the Pacifica pier indicating a MEGA wave had just broken. I stopped at the B lot. Dox was packed over head high and an ocean beach like paddle out. I headed down South and found Capitola to be quite doable. It was big – head high on sets- but clean and very comfortable paddle out. I availed myself well on the new board. Really biting into wide open sections of the face – racing -for me at least- down the line. Improvement…
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 84 al
Notes : clear clean and classic waist to shoulder boat dox. hella crowded. I thought I would flounder but I had a good go of it. Caught a head higher for my last wave that had some juice…
Stats/Video :