Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94 AL
Notes : Onshory- jumbled up- but some not small chunky wedges coming thru at boat dox and near the creek. bit of a chore paddling out. Wave of the session definitely goes to Fire Tim who took off on a mid size left near the creek – the wave king of walled up and he tucked into the curl into an absolute KLASSICK cheater five position- screaming down the line – right in the curl – seemed like forever- perfect form- the wave was all foamed up so it was crazy white. thing was his ENTIRE BODY seemed to be near the end of the board- not just his front five- he was not stretched out to get the cheater five-like a full body nose ride. on my last wave it was a big ole chunky wedge. soon after take off i tripped ONTO MY BOARD. held on and body boarded. then got back up and a whole new pure glass faced section opened up in front of me…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions