Location : LM
Time/Length : am/.45
Rating : ****
Performance : ***+
Board : 94 al
Notes : HOLY Feckin shit! got there and it was overcast and off shore pond – everyone was up North. I thought I saw something breaking by the creek which was empty and flat. i9 drove over to the b lot and indeed on the sets some clean wide breaking rollers were coming in. Steph rode up and I said do you see what I see. I got in in 5 minutes. forgot how many waves I got- one after the other – all nose riders – relatively close to shore but very user friendly – surfed great as well. that day TCIMH photo shoot with mo and senna studio…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions