Location : LMC and B
Time/Length : am/2.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : Hot Damn. I surfed really well. N one tips and with stances and slalom surfing avoiding soft top kooks in the impact zone. First it was the dox – very soft and mellow but managed a few. The over to the right at the creek where it was more bite to the wave. Everyone was sitting inside (except me and A) avoiding the outside set wave which came by with a fair bit of consistency- glassy and nice – dodging at all sorts of people when I powered through the inside…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions