Month: January 2020

Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance :****
Board : 95
Notes : Clear and clean and breaking outside. Kelp was somewhat of an issue. However I surfed perfectly – great turns – on the tip at crucial sections to make the END RUN on the inside. Song Vid is by BermanSnow Is Falling in Manhattan – amongst the greatest lyrics of all time about songwriting??
Stats/Video :https://vimeo.com/388628136

Location : SCP
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : BOONDOGGLE DAY. Cap was kind of too soft and meager. Privates looked much more substantial. Only 4 folks out and tide was rising so I was a little afeared. In the distance I could see Sharks super crowded – looked like the place to be. However the go pro whacked out on me – then folk started leaving. Suddenly I was the only one in the water (along with a lone paddle boarder.) too creepy. I waited for a nice set wave to come by – which was very nice and decided not to risk no solo surf. called it a sesh…
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Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : got there when the Tide was right – 1 hour after dead low. Breaking head high on the way outside. Surfed really well. Could do no wrong and really stuck to the board on some waves that I should have wiped out.
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Overcast mediocre day at the dox. all women in the lineup which was nice. surfed blandly and missed a lot of waves. kept waiting for the outside big kahuna which never really came my way. Finally though – at the ass end of the session a set wave offered itself up – a nice racy left – Redemption Wave…
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : dox was working. there was swell. for some reason I got into a few nice waves and then fell off at the critical juncture – staring down a WIDE OPEN FACE. happened about 4 times. however snagged a few nice lefties…
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Location : LMC
Time/Length : AM/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : OVERCAST AND looked more or less like mush. the dox not really working. but there was a makable right at the creek/pandas. anyway I surfed so good it was like the waves were perfect Malibu- great nugget  after nugget. exceptional surf performance. bad waves + exceptional performance = great sesh
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Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Big dox – perhaps the crowds I have ever surfed it?? don’t know- very cautious. Got one outside wave that was very nice. Its disconcerting when you are waiting on the outside for a set wave. then the set wave comes and everyone is PADDLING out to you in the hopes of scratching over the wave. ONE AND DONE
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Location : SCC
Time/Length : am/21.5
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 95
Notes : Cap was about half a foot bigger than my solo comfort zone. Down at Cowells things were just starting ti turn on as the tide was getting lower. I stayed way way outside waiting – managed 3 or 4 set waves that started out real BUMPY but then re groomed and turned into very nice long inside rights
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Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/1.5
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : In the lot I saw  wave after perfect wave in front of TB. Bothe a left and a right – depending on where you sat. However – when I got out there it seemed to all vanish – couldn’t really connect – some here and there’s but not how I envisioned it from the parking lot. Couldn’t really tell if the swell just dies or I surfed really badly…
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Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 95 Magic Dove
Notes : Clean , windless waist to head high Cap. People were grouped together sitting on the outside almost straight out from the beach. Nobody was sitting further South waiting for those one or two set waves to SWIN G WIDE. So that is exactly where I went. Good Call. PERHAPS a little longer of a wait – but not much – and when it swung by there was just me for the wave. Nailed some head high bombs where I had to really stay perched at the breaking tip of the wave in order to make it onto the WIDE Open sections. Batted 100%. EVERY SINGLE WAVE I PADDLED FOR I CAUGHT.
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