Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **+
Performance : **+
Board : 95
Notes : Everything was going fine at dox. The only problem was the crowd – too big. The waves were folding over quick but – again- I was surfing pretty good. I jumped on a close-outs loser wave lost the board and when I came up realized the nose was glistening in the sun light. uhhh. MAJOR DAMAGE. it must have hit a rock and PEELED back to the foam the entire bottom decks nose in a 7 inch triangle. never done so much damage to a board. super bummed. how did it happen?? I don’t know. RW says it might be to far gone…. awaiting his prognosis.
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions