Month: July 2019

LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes :  cold overcast onshore-y mushy choppy. but again -corners happening in the creek/piandas area – which is where everyone was clustered – well worth it- angle into some nice rights that all exited in rock garden more or less
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LMC

Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Clear windless and sunny. Every inch of the mar was covered. More or less something makeable from the N end to the dox. Caught TC coming out who advised the creek – not as long as the right at Piandas or the left at dox but less people. He was right. I managed some nice little chunks. My last wave this green WEDGE kind of just rolled towards me like a blobby jelly fish – a real freak wave so I took it. what a ride – it really stood up and refused to fold over gliding across this lippy freak wave – right up near the nose- great wave
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NSick

Location : NSick
Time/Length :
Rating :
Performance :
Board :
Notes : well I would get really feverish around 4pm  – fever and the chills – it would pretty much last all night – also a little achy. Friday stayed home from work and just tried to sweat it out…
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LMN

Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : **+
Board : 94
Notes :  started at LMA then started chasing the elsusive peal with a another longboarder further and further up the beach, it was clean and my hair didn’t get wet until the third ride. we kept paddling further up north where we just were missing the perfect glassy bomb. by the time i exited i was neary at the complete North End…
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