Month: December 2020

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : *+
Board : 95
Notes : I got to the dox too late in the am – it was swamped out and crowded. folks said it was epic at first light- missed out. decided to do the rare pm/sunset surf and Tina was along for the ride. epic sunset. extreme low tide. some here and there’s – mostly I was surfing shite so missed some nice little wedges. found exactly two rides that I wobbled down the line on in a most in elegant fashion. more often than not December 2020  has been my kook/wonk month…
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CNS

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Notes : capitola – but said no – size was big but handable- tide was still too high and didn’t want to take a bomb and then get washed against the rocks on a clean up set on the paddle back…
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : overcast and lake like down south. the north end had sharp hollow shortboard like waves. surprised to see a number of people get mini head barrels. I just couldn’t dig in correctly and went over the falls on any number of times. generally had a bad performance. our first SF xmas – ever. zoomed with the whole fam snd Tina made a big old curry stew. gonna finally watch kelley new film – ‘first cow’
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LMA

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : *
Board : 95
Notes : overcast and lake like down on the south end. north had feathering close to shore offshore lines. after a long time hemming and hawing I suited up. but the peak had shifted and I just went on a hunt and peck surfari. from here to there and back to here again. I couldn’t connect. finally a nice right came my way – a nice little waist high bumpy frothy line. Done.
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LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : *
Performance : minus*
Board : 95
Notes : clear crisp offshore. feathery crumbly closeouts at the creek and dox. some waist high open faced nuggets came by here and there- but not for me. was it the singular worst performance for me of 2020? I would say yes. however there are still more or less eight chances  left in 2020 to surf even worse than today sesh …
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SCS

Location : SCS
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clean glassy and clear. hemmed and hawed at Capitola – then no. hemmed and hawed at privates – then not. at the hook it was smallish but very clean line – already crowded with great long boarders. but sharks – that was the answer. straight away I tucked into two very good rights small but well groomed – with multiple sections. then for 45 minutes I had a dry spell- bad positioning and some fumbles. Finally the magic wave came my way = shoulder high – pure glass- no one else around- a great wave. far down the line I saw a guy shoulder hop – I caught up to him really quick and he did a graceful dismount – – I thanked him as I raced further down the line through another section. it petered out far into the sharks cove. sesh end…
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