Location : LM
Time/Length : 1.15
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***
Board : 92
Notes : Pretty dang good out there. Almost a 4. Kingish high tide- so a lot of water. but between taco bell and the creek there was a very nice consistent right-grabbed a many right at the peak (no shoulders on this wave) and a lot of face to work with cause of all the water- had to pay attention and not get to far ahead. At one point i took off on a right band couldn’t get high on the wave so made a big bottom turn- i figured thats it I’m not ahead of it so I’m not gonna get any ride of this. Freakishly the wave stayed up when I got out of my bottom turn (which was deep) and I was staring into a clear hollow section- I realized “I’m gonna get barreled” I was so shocked I lost my footing and the board shot out in front of me. Almost. I know now- a barrel is attainable on the south end of LM given the right conditions
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=8692
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions