Day: August 9, 2020

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***
Performance : ****
Board : 95
Notes : Foggy and at 645 am the B lot was almost full. There was the left at the creek – but already there was just a tad too many people on it. Dox was smaller but less trafficked. (The North end was explosive close outs). Out at dox there was actually sets coming in – and I waited for them. I scored early and often. The crowd was almost all kooks so it was easy pickins. I was on my game. Logged with spastic elegance. Pulled off some hood ornaments and an Ian Curtis and some full cockers. Surfed so that if someone was looking at me casually from shore would think “my – that physically disabled man is able to surf – how inspiring.” The people kept coming. I got out and truly dropped my jaw at how many people were on the south end- it was wall to wall soft top jockeys. I walked over to the A lot to watch the utter devastation on the north end. kids and adults were going over the Falls in massive closeout – getting utterly annihilated- the most anyone got was a drop that turned into a brutal closeout on the surfers head. Why would they take such punishment? It wasn’t “surfing” it seemed more like ignorant wonton risk taking…
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