Location : C
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : ***+
Board : 95
Notes : every spot was crowded as hell – hook – sharks- 38th – privates. I didn’t think it would be breaking at Cap – but it was. plus everyone was on the INSIDE. I paddled way outside and immediately got two bombs in the first half hour. Then it went into a lull for almost 40 minutes (why sesh is not a 4) then came back. kelp was quite a problem and took skills to avoid. I tripped on one wave onto the front of the board – somehow hung on – got up – and continued…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions