Day: October 30, 2019

Location : LMA
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ****
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : A lot action – clean clear strong offshore.Most waves folding over quickly and/or closing out. But that occasional Right was staying open and was a sweet ride. Then I noticed all of a sudden I noticed RD/PLB in the lineup. A soft topper dropped in on him and he was OFF TO THE RACES. OLB started screaming at him and – surprisingly- soft topper started talking back to him. This is NOT going to end well. Soft topper had two friends – also kooks- who came to soft toppers side. Now it was 3 against RD/OLB. RD OLB started screaming at all of them calling them kooks and something about -what else-  so you guys are locals huh- anyway I paddled away down South anticipating there would be a blood bath starting at any moment. Down south near Taco Bell I picked off a right – it was a ride that once up I thought – this is gonna close out on me – but it was one of those waves that just stayed open when the entire face was LIPPING with spray at the top – as far down the line as I could see the wave was at the same precipice – almost closing out- but it stayed open and I just raced down the line – feeling imminent collapse at any moment – bit it stayed open and was a sweet ride. after that I noticed fireman T getting out. He had gotten assaulted by old the week of the big chill out – I told him what was going down and we talked about it for a while and he explained to me why he didn’t call cops on old that day.  we both got out and as we were walking up by Taco Bell we could still hear olb screaming at the 3 kooks…
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