Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : I snagged a giant slab in front of the A lot pump house. As I was hurtling down the face I was headed towards a short boarder heading out. However , I was going to fast to stop. As I got closer to him I considered aborting- I could register panic on his face. I thought jumping off might be worse so I decided I could hold on and I would pass in front of him. It was risky because if I had fallen we definitely would have collided + the wave was too strong- I didn’t feel totally in control. I stayed on the board and passed in front of him. Thereafter I went further down South – near the creek – Got some mellower corners
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=14166
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions