Month: March 2021

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : was on the fence. shallow low tide. closeouts. offshore. but I got convinced in. glad cause I snagged 3 waves and two of them were very good. my first at dox. then o paddled over to pandibar and got my second. then I paddled back over to dox for my last and best wave.
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/.35
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clear sky- offshore breeze. low tide and super shallow. six of us at the dox – all regulars trying to scratch out a line in the closed out mess. I managed one- that stayed open – for quite a bit- then it was closeout after close out- I managed one more – to my amazement considering the difficult conditions – is I got out – happy
Stats/Video :

LMTB

Location : LMTB
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : **
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Small. Clean. Foggy as all get out. A little peak at the pandibar – not too crowded – made some rad switch foots and managed to surf goofy foot on some sections – surfed well

Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length :am/2.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Clear blue skies. Clean. Crisp. Relatively windless. Kind of crowded at dox – but not “oh my Jesus crowded.: Knee to waist high with odd one shoulder. Surfed really good especially the first hour and a half. Then I hit a slump – or things dies down. 45 minute wait until I bagged my exit wave. Rare over two hour sesh. At one point I was sitting outside and a set wave came my way- since I was outside a n umber of people screamed my name. But then I missed the damn thing. I paddled back and said I was writing a 50 cent pulp novel:

“He missed the wave of the Winter and became …

SHAME OF THE LINEUP

a taut thriller on the wild lifestyle of the men and women who ride the California breakers.”
Stats/Video :

LMB

Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : **
Performance : **+
Board : 95 MD
Notes : The wave was in front of Taco Bell. A fat lipped broad breaking lumpy, dumpy and grumpy thing. But the pod was overheated with soft top jabrones banging into each other. I just wasn’t up for the kook radar battle so I went to dox which was just starting to break. A number of regulars actually paddled over from TB – too crowded – the Taco Bell refugees. though it was high tide I managed more than a few lumpy high tide rides – with M G H A MA and a host of other mellow riders…
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