Day: November 23, 2023

Location : C Street
Time/Length : am/2.45
Rating : ****+
Performance : ****+
Board : MD 94 Prototype
Notes : We hoofed it down to C Street and it was beautiful perfect waves . However – it was so crowded with pro level surfers it was definitely intimidating. Shoulder to waist hi Waves were connecting from outside – all the way through to the inside “harbor ” section” . Thus, normally if you sat in on the inside harbor section – it would section off and then reform for a great ride on the inside. But that wasn’t happening. People were riding it full on from the outside to the inside. So many times I would look down the line – “is that guy gonna make it on that wave ALL THE WAY DOWN HERE. You were just ready for the person to kick out – and then take off on the reform. But each time thee great surfers would just be gunning down a section that never closed out. You would abort – or they would scream/ “On it , on it”. This was literally an HOUR of just paddling around like this. Finally we said “fuck it” and paddled to the way outside where the peak was. I first took off on a MONSTER – definitely Head high – outside – and definitely in my lane. I took off and it lifted me up – the only way I could manage was getting right up near the nose- there was a GIANT gap between where I was standing and the bottom or trough of the cresting wave. Definitely like I was floating just in space. However, This wave was NOT gonna peel off and offer an open face. At least it felt like that to me – that it was gonna close out and SMOTHER me. So I decided to kick out. Glad I did. The next wave however I was in the perfect position. However there was TWO people in my flight path – almost like obstacles to a giant never ending GREEN face. The first person I managed to weave around – the second had a look of terror on his face when he realized I was gonna try and shoot in front of him. But I did and the wave OPENED UP (some kid wearing surf sunglasses yelled ‘Right on”) I was off to the races . The wave never ended. I ended up almost near the pier – 726 feet – a record for me. Man – it was fast also. A few more that session – but one for the record books. That night we Gina made a great maple butter pan fried chicken , Tina made asparagus with a great sauce and I made semi-smashed tater. Mike texted us with tales of truffle pasta in Torino while Holder held down the trad fort with a Turkey. Great t – give!!!
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