LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : hollow left barrel by the creek. 75% close outs w/brutality. shortboards were making the drop and scoring mini barrels. i went in for the challenge – trying to score w/a longboard on extreme drops. Mostly i was brutalized. I could;d only get in if i took off on an extreme diagonal. i got one … my fourth ride – only 50 yards but basically under the shroud the entire time – pretty cool
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=14833

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.0
Rating : **
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : Wavering in the B lot. Mush w/power tomahawk closeouts. I watched for half and hour. I could envision myself on a right by the creek that was makable so I decided to get wet – in and out 1/2 hour tops. Met R3 in the lot who said “i’m going to Dunes” Many a folk have said to me over the last month “Dude you gotta hit dunes – its been working like magic” Where the hell is Dunes I asked R3- turns out it’s by HMB further up from the jetty but before cowboy surf shop. R3 said it was working because of some unique sandbar that was formed over the winter. I know exactly where the spot is because when ASP first moved out here we went to that beach – we called it “secret spot” surfed it in the summer without wetsuits. One time we lost the keys to our van somewhere on that beach. Michael was with us and we said lets try the key to your car (which was back in SF) – amazingly HIS car key worked for our van and we piled back in for the ride back to SF. Dunes – must scope out. Got one nice ride- performance show off wave. the rest were just scary closeouts…
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=14670

C

Location : C
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : On the edge- almost too big. I wavered. In the end I paddled out – from the beach because the jetty entrance was just too jumbled. I stayed left of the pack. Fortunately the swell was decreasing in size. Some nice ones – however I could have surfed better- especially in the reading waves department. Video included…
Stats/Video:
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LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : started out at the creek – cleanish – offshore. first 45 minutes it was great – then it went dead. Paddled over to Taco bell where there was a corner breaking – high tide – it would break and then reform into a hollow shore break section that was cool , racy and dangerous because it tomahawked onto the beach. proper exit strategy was key. shortish but challenging rides
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=1431

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.30
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 94
Notes : Barely 3. It was fairly clean but getting to be high tide. The early crew were getting out- Crespi was the place. However, I noticed a right staying open between the A lot pump house and Taco Bell. No one really on it- so I gambled and paddled out to that spot. Glad I did. Grabbed some chunky little rights – was surfing very well so it was a grand time. An hour later and the tide had gotten too high. The spot had kind of one away- only Crespi was working. A outside left was still coming through where I was so I waited for it to appear. (I missed an earlier one and got pulverized -lipped. I waited for a half hour almost. Finally it came i took off too late but recovered and made a decent go of the reform. Seth over.
Stats/Video : ttp://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=14266

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/1.45
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : I snagged a giant slab in front of the A lot pump house. As I was hurtling down the face I was headed towards a short boarder heading out. However , I was going to fast to stop. As I got closer to him I considered aborting- I could register panic on his face. I thought jumping off might be worse so I decided I could hold on and I would pass in front of him. It was risky because if I had fallen we definitely would have collided + the wave was too strong- I didn’t feel totally in control. I stayed on the board and passed in front of him. Thereafter I went further down South – near the creek – Got some mellower corners
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=14166

LM

Location : LM
Time/Length : AM/2.o
Rating : ***
Performance : **
Board : 94
Notes : Pretty good out there by the creek- A little choppy with broad breaking wedges pushing through. It was also reform city. First hour was great. Then I lost my mojo and couldn’t really score- part of the reason was so many ding-dang jarbroni’s in the water – sitting like logs right in the impact zone
Stats/Video : http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=519895&vId=14043