Location : LMB
Time/Length : am/1.0
Rating : ****
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes :It was massive on the North end. On the South end a complete zoo from the Taco Bell to the Dox. Everyone was crammed into that zone. Dox was about as crowded as I have ever seen it. Wasn’t even sure how I was gonna paddle out. But there were long flat lulls. The point was breaking massive as well. I decided I would be very cautious and just wait and wait – on the outside. I timed the paddle out to the lull and got outside with dry hair. I waited and waited. 30 minutes and then the set came. A woman who had just gotten out grabbed the first one – I aborted just in time. Then a few minutes later a nice size wedge came through -I was SHARPLY angled to the left ALMOST a sideways take off but it was perfect- Screaming down the face I heard MS scream PAAAT. The next wave was an even longer wait 40 minutes sitting way outside – bobbin around like a chump. Was it done ? Maybe I should join the rest of the scrum on the inside. But I stuck it out. finally it arrived ed. I started paddling diagonal for it VERY EARLY. Coming at me was the entire inside scrum – paddling fast to try and scratch over it. I heaved into it ( at least 2 people were screaming my name – it was funny) and rocketed down the face- it felt like one of the biggest waves I had ever gotten at the dox. When the whitewater crashed around me finally I decided to belly board in – seemed like too much white water to be able to control. 1:15 = 2 waves. Got out. Delivered the Los Olos to CP = new hands on the first board in the quiver…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions