Location : LM
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ***+
Performance : **+?
Board : 84 al
Notes : well finally nailed it on two waves. the were head high and I got in early – full face – room to breathe – to move – to start and FEEL the board. I was actually SURFING again. damn it goes fucking fast. anyway it was a good morning tina along for the ride- cloudless – windless- sunny- Taco Bell clean peak…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions