Location : LMC
Time/Length : am/1.15
Rating : ***
Performance : ***
Board : 95
Notes : Foggy and clean. Hit the creek even though it was crowded with around 30-35 people. (usually 15 – 20 is my cash creek limit.) Plus there was too much testosterone on the peak. it seemed like everyone was under 35, a male, and on a shorter board. Yuck. But I hit it and scored some carefully selected lefts. I hit one left that I was on the shoulder of- it was a larger set wave – I paddled and was effectively on the wave- but holding off because three of these kids had taken off on the peak. I kept looking back to see “are any of those kids gonna make that drop, skirt around the crumbling section and make the open shoulder where I was?” The answer was no. All three of them fell – shot down like doughboys going over the line in WW1. Essentially, at that point, I just stood up and scored a very nice glassy left – the shoulder was like a NYC deli – WIDE OPEN ALL NIGHT…
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Daily Journal On Surf Conditions