Day: December 4, 2019

Location : LMN
Time/Length : am/2.0
Rating : ****+
Performance : ****
Board : 94
Notes : Holy Fucking Shit. It was overcast – a little drizzly. It looked pretty flat is I went to the A lot. There were lines coming in just North of the pump house – but just one person on it. Way way up North were SUP M and SUP D. I actually saw them both get waves as I was coming over the hump. I paddled out and immediately caught a tuber of feathering waist high rights – stuff I could really turn on. Slowly I saw SUP M making his way South. He IMPLORED me to go North – consistent and great. But I begged off because now NO ONE was there. He said no there was one girl on a soft top that just got out. I stayed put. After a little while I noticed about 4 other long boarders get in way up North- from the distance I could see they were getting rides so I made the LONG LONG  paddle to the north end. There were five young friends – everyone was clustered almost BUTTING up against the North end rock. Mark was RIGHT of course. A giant FEATHERING right was coming through very consistent. I lined up as I heard one of the kids yell – OUTSIDE. He was right. A GIANT – I was right in position . I took off as it feathered then hit the mid-line – even at the mid line it was OVER MY HEAD. The board started to throttle at the speed but I held the line – how I have no idea. Easily the BIGGEST wave I have ever had at LM. Got about three more – none quite as big but all big wide faces that were relatively easy to paddle into – what a sesh…
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